Planning the Circuit Boards (cont)

Went over the circuit board designs some more today and found a few ways to optimize / simplify the overall layout. It’ll probably be a few days before I have the time to actually start with the boards, which is no problem as I’m still waiting to hear back from the LED supplier on the new order.

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6 Responses to Planning the Circuit Boards (cont)

  1. Dan (notman) says:

    How do you plan to connect these to the harness? Are you going to make a through-hole for a wire? Or a tab to solder a wire to? Or just a bolt, through a hole? Just curious, because I don’t see a pad laid out for connecting (once you convert to a copper)

    • Dan (notman) says:

      Also, is it intentional to have these LEDs in series? I know you’ve done some testing, and I’m not familiar with the particular LEDs you’re using, but there are a couple of things to be mindful of.
      1) Each ‘grouping’ of LEDs has a different number of LEDs, which means the LEDs, in each group, will get a different voltage to each LED. I’m sure it won’t be a big deal, since there isn’t THAT much variation between the number of LEDs in each group. (I suspect I may not be clear with what I mean)
      2) If 1 LED goes out, then all the others (in that group) will go out too. If you arrange them in parallel, then the others will still function, if one LED goes out. The others just get a little more current.

      Just some things to keep in mind.

      • Dan (notman) says:

        To elaborate on point #1 (for clarification):
        Obviously the system is 12V. In your turn signal, the outer group has 10 LEDs, which means each LED will get 1.2 volts. On the stop light, the lower group has 5 LEDs, which means each LED gets 2.4 volts.

        The reason I mention this is, if the LEDs are 12V LEDs, then they will get less voltage than they were designed for. If they are NOT 12V LEDS, then the smaller grouping may get more voltage than they were designed for.

    • flaagan flaagan says:

      Heya Dan!

      So, to go over your questions…

      The input side will have a through hole with copper around it to solder the resistor to it. The resistor will be soldered to the incoming power source wire. I’m already just using a small dab of solder to firmly hold the resistors to the “revision 1” light boards I’ve made, and they’re on their solid

      The output side is currently another dab of solder that is firmly holding the grounding wire in place to (or between two) LED “-” terminals. This is going to be replaced by those long strips coming out of the “Out” ends, which will have the wire soldered directly down to that along its length.

      Once the soldering and testing is complete, I’ll be coating the boards with some form of sealant or coating to seal everything in.

      As far as the LEDs in series, yes, that is intentional. I’ve got a bit of redundancy in the design such that each of the “critical” lights (running / reverse, turn, brake) has two sets of LEDs. This was and wasn’t intentional, as I wanted the redundancy in some form, and the voltage supplied limited the number of LEDs in series that I could run. I could run them in a different setup, but the amount of space I have avaible results in cramming too much into too little.

      The voltage isn’t an issue as I’ve already confirmed (and did a good bit of research and math on), and each of the sets of LEDs has a resistor. The red and orange I could fit 5 LEDs max per resistor, which worked with how many LEDs I planned on using. The white LEDs were only going to total 6, which would draw more voltage than the car would provide, so I split them 3 and 3 with a different resistor than the reds and oranges were using.

      • Dan (notman) says:

        Ok, just wanted to throw that out that before you got to far 🙂 I saw the posts, on the test phases, but sometimes things work for the short term, but long term, they eventually burn up (in general… not saying yours will :))
        Carry on…

        • flaagan flaagan says:

          Yeah, “burning up” was definitely a concern. I did that hour and a half run test on the running lights (honestly can’t remember the last time I drove for that long) to see how hot they got. They were definitely pretty warm, but I’ve burned myself on the regular bulbs GM uses on my Corvette from running them less, so I’m not worried.

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